Home Automation Wish List
This is a simple list of home automation needs/wants for the new house.
We might be using the folks at Cropp-Metcalfe Services for a lot of the smart systems in our new home. Another good contendor are the folks at iWired (iwired.com) who have a very good handle on the technology.
Tim Byrnes of Wired (703-328-0925, email@example.com) is consulting with Cropp-Metcalf and myself to handle all the low-voltage wiring, the home audio and video systems, and the phone/intercom system.
It looks like they (Cropp-Metcalfe) are pushing the OnQ HMS 1050 security system (they were talking about the ITI Concord, but switched when we expressed interest in X10 interfaces) , which looks very capeable.
I want an electrical system that is normally powered by electrical power from NOVEC (the loval provider). For emergencies I want enough UPS battery capacity to run all the critical circuits with a moderately heavy load for around 15 minutes, and if power from NOVEC has not returned in about 12 minutes, I want the UPS batteries to start a LP generator that can both recharge the batteries and provide power for several days to the critical circuits and a few lights.
Desired: Critical Circuits that are powered by the local power company, with battery backup (large capacity) that is trickle charged from the same power company when power is good; in the event of power failure, the batteries should kick in instantly and run until at about 1/2 their time capacity (hopefully as much as 15 minutes) then automatically start a generator so those critical circuits never die. Generator could be power by liquid propane, diesel, gasoline, whatever...
We might be working with Keving Longo of Advanced Equipment to set up a generator system. Lee Systems and Dynamic Electric may do the UPS.
"Whole House" Uninterruptable Power Supplie Circuits:
- Sewage extractor pump basement bathroom (load?)
- Sewage extractor pump basement kitchenette (load?)
- Septic pump (load?)
- Well pump (load?)
- Storm Crock pump in basement (load?)
- Hot Water Heater Ignition by Master Bath
- Hot Water Heater Ignition by Kitchen
- Stove top ignition (watts? amps?)
- Freezer: Sears (load?)
- Fridge: KitchenAid KSSS48 QKB (20 amp)
- Fridge: Amana DRB2101BW (15 amp)
- Fridge: Viking VUAR140F-SS
- Fireplace Ignition: Master Bedroom: (load?)
- Fireplace Ignition: Family Room: (load?)
- Stovetop ignition: (load?)
- Exhaust Fans (mostly will not be run together, 35w max):
- Range Hood: Miele Novatronic DA-220-2 exhaust fan (15 amp for fan & lights)
how much for just the fan without the halogen lights?
- Powder Room Exhaust Fan (15 watts)
- Basement Bathroom Exhaust Fan (15 watts)
- Upstairs Bathroom Exhaust Fan (15 watts)
- Laundry Room Fan (17 watts)
- Master Bath Exhaust Fan (20 watts)
- Master Bath WC Exhaust Fan (15 watts)
- Satelite Receiver/PVR (load)
- second satelite PVR (load)
- lan gear, cable modem (loads)
- Garage Doors (load)
- security system (OnQ HMS-1050; load?)
- A handfull of key lights:
- family room floor plug (4 x 60w Incand)
- stairwell step lights (26w Florescent)
- mudroom (2 x 26w CF)
- aquarium pumps, powerheads, lights, heaters:
Must keep fish and corals alive:
- power heads
- Optionally a little bit of heat:
- family room, bedroom, master bath, kitchen radiant heaters vrs heat pump - comparative load?
- Erci's office a computer or two for graceful shutdown
- Scott's office a computer or two for graceful shutdown
- Aquarium stuff, so the pumps do not lose momentum
- Satellite Receiver/PVR gear, to continue recording
- LAN gear, Cable Modem, in case we use a laptop, to continue ftp
- Very small number of lights
- stair lights (26w flor)
- any others, florescent only?
Banner Power Co.
11634 Boiling Brook Place, Rockville, MD 20852
Whole house surge suppression.
Idea: but the bathroom fans on timers, and possibly on LiteTouch or X10 so they can all be turned on automatically...
After doing a little research, I believe that we can handle all the lighting automation with X-10 interfaces.
They are cheap, pretty reliable, and easy for me to hack at and tinker with.
With them we will be able to achieve the benchmark goals of Erci being able to turn off all lights in the basement or on the second floor with a single switch.
I should be able to control all holiday decoration lights with one switch as well.
Erci has a list of all the lights in the house at http://vampyr.org/lighting.html, and I am starting a list of all the light switches and controls at http://scottnolan.org/switches.html.
The key to making the X-10 controlled appliances reliable and secure, will be in taking a few specific steps with the electrical system in the house:
Lighting control suppliers:
- An X-10 signal blocker must be installed between the power feed and the house.
- We may need to bridge a couple of electrical circuits with X-10 bridges.
- We should have all the lights and recepticals in a given "House Code" zone on a single electrical sub-system.
- All basement lights and outlets that are likely to be used for lamps should be on one set of circuits that X-10 signals can traverse.
- All second floor lights and outlets used by lamps will be on a set of circuits that X-10 signals can traverse (housecode for upstairs "All Off").
- All lights and lamp outlets in the Muddroom, Dining Room, Pantry, Butler's Pantry, Kitchen, Family Room, Foyer, Powder Room, Ballroom, Scott's Office, and Attached Garage should be on one housecode/electrical sub-system.
- All lights and lamp outlets in the Master Bedroom, Master Bath, Laundry, Excerscise, Closets, and Screen Porch should be on one housecode/electrical sub-system.
- I want outlets underneath each window sill for holiday decorative lights (candles, Christmas lights, etc) that are all on one circuit.
- External outlets shold be on one or two circuits, electrically close to the under-window sill outlets for easy X-10 signalling.
lighting control panels by main stairwell, to shutoff all basement or 2nd floor lights
Touchpads (which ones are X-10 compatible?):
lighting control panel in master bedroom, to shutoff all house lights other than bedroom
exterior lighting control panels by front door, mudroom, garage, and family room door, possibly in the master bedroom by the screened porch door too - to shut off outside lights, or turn on floods, or turn on night lighting (dim) throughout the Master Suite, or house.
Most of the data networking will be solved by having "home run" (all jacks run directly to a single closet, no daisy-chaining) arrangement of either Category 6 cables (typically two per room) or empty conduit so cabling can be run later.
Additionally many rooms will have redundant jacks so that cabling does not have to be run around doors or fireplaces (Scott's office gets two sets of jacks, Upstairs back bedroom gets two sets of jacks).
We will typically use one Cat6 cable in each room for data (RJ45) and one Cat5E cable for Telephone (RJ-45 serving as RJ-14 - two pairs of conductors active).
In the closet there will be a pair of breakout racks (phone and networking) and patch cables to connect to the phone system or the multiport hub as appropriate.
Ports on the breakout panels will be labeled to the room/jack plate.
The security system must have at least three modes (home, away, and off).
When we are home, only the perimeter sensors should be active.
When we are away, the perimeter sensors should be active and backed up by extra sensors within the house.
When the system is off we should be able to have a chime sound when a door is opened, but we should also be able to disable the chime for specific doors/windows (preferrably in programmed sets).
We should be able to set the same three modes for two different zones (main house and workshop) independantly, yet have them monitored together at the monitoring station/service.
Chimes from each zone should be able to sound in the other.
I should be able to arm, disarm, and change chime behavior silently (or at least such that the panel in the bedroom does not sound so a sleeper can remain undisturbed).
- door sensors on all doors on main house
- door sensor on shop door
- sensors on basement and ground floor windows (2nd floor too?)
- window screen sensors (so that a few windows can be open with the alarm still active)
National Security Screens
PO Box 6
Occaquan, Virginia 22125
System Access Panels (Main House Zone):
- motion detectors in ballroom, shop, dining room, family room, game room
- glass break sensors
- anything else?
Status Indicator Lights (if the perimeter is armed or not):
- Main House Zone: mudroom wall near entrance to kitchen
- Main House Zone: master bedroom wall near hallway (or perhaps in hallway)
- Wood Shop Zone: wall inside the door
- Family Room Door
- Kitchen Door
- Basement Sliding Door
- Front Door
- Master Bedroom Door (yes, because the panel is on the other side of the room)
- Dining Room Doors (one indicator is enough)
We really want a camera on the pool, but it would be nice to have a few more cameras at key locations (entrances).
Black and white is fine.
If they can be tied to motion detectors that would be interesting, either for shorter recording (time lapse - only when changes are present), or for tracking purposes.
Video feed to central repository for distribution throughout house via RG6, and for possible capture to low grade VCR or hard disk, but only when motion detected; and for viewing on normal TV tuners.
The cameras should be tied in with a DVR (Digital Video Recorder). The DVR should be able to watch several cameras at once, and record only when there is activity (to save space) and record from several cameras simultaneously if there is activity on all of them.
- Windows vrs Linux/BSD/UNIX - most vendors use Windows based PC systems, Linux is more stable - no licensing issues
- Card in a computer vrs standalone DVR - RTOS is excellent technically, but proprietary costs are high. (3R, Korea Computer Technologies, Kodicom, Artinix) Better picture quality on RTOS/Standalone - networking is tough on Standalone though...
- JPEG vrs MPEG for security, JPEG is often better!
- http://www.miesys.net/insights1-1.htm (excellent articles about DVR technology)
- Linux DVR Products
- magnetic sensors at street end and driveway juncture end of driveway
- driveway sensors turn on low voltage lighting if it is dark outside
- optionally send chime to house and shop when driveway sensor is triggered
- garage walkway lights to come on if dark
Motion Dectors/Flood Lights:
Phone and Cellular Uplink:
- of interest - but don't want deer setting off floodlights
- would like basement door lit
- motion detectors to set off cameras
- what about deer repellants?
It would be nice if the programmable thermostats could have preset states
for Home, Away, Sleeping, Off, and
Coming Home ("Coming Home" is for when we are not home, but we are
expected home within 30 minutes or so). It would be nice if this could be
tied to the security/alarm system which has some of the same states, such
that if the alarm knows we are still home, the Heat and Air Conditioning stays
set for the occupied state. Ideally, the workshop would be zoned separately
from the main house too. We should be able to program a wake up time
each morning, where the heat comes up from Sleeping mode to Home
mode shortly before we wake up. We should also be able to program a
Coming Home time where the system goes to Home mode from
Away mode when we think we'll be home soon. We should be able to
reset the Coming Home time via telephone. If the house is already
in Home mode when the Coming Home code or time is given, nothing
happens. Likewise for the Wake Up code/time if we are already in the
new mode manually. I'd like the system to run without external computers,
but be programmable via occasional computer connection (flash a new program
to the system, or restore previous program).
If we can get Cable Modem broadband access, we will only need one local phone line for voice calls and for backup dialup in case the cable fails. Can we use mobile phones instead of a land line? That would cut one relationship entirely.
If Comcast can't provide Cable Modem access, but we can get DSL from Verizon (formerly GTE), then we may only need one line. DSL piggybacks on the same copper pair, so analog voice and fax ride the same cable as the broadband connection to the internet. We can dialup over the analog as a backup.
If we cannot get broadband access, we want 2 to 3 central office lines that can be picked up at any of up to 21 phones, phone to phone intercom features, phone to door intercom, door control, paging functions between phones, caller-id on each phone, ability to use some old analog decorative phones or modems or DishNet receivers.
What about not using a KSU? What features does the KSu give me that are not in the following config:
intercom (easy to use intercom between KSU system phones).
forward calls to cell phone, voicemail, or pager
can block/route calls from unknown and hidden numbers with caller ID subscription (eliminate spam)
intercom to door buzzers, optionally unlock doors (this is duplicateable without KSU for $188 + $169/station)
two and three way conference calling (needs a few CO lines)
with caller id service and VPS, calls from specific numbers can be Name Annouced, get up to 4 special messages prior to voicemail,
with optional DISA fax detection, incoming faxes can be routed without a dedicated fax line
can operate as a voice mail system (replaces voicemail subscription and possibly a 3rd line)
with optional DISA board, call home from anywhere to use home's long distance rates (or site hide)
(useful with cellular when in local area making long distance calls)
with VPS: live call screening (as answering machine)
with VPS: fax-detection, eliminates dedicated line for faxes
with VPS: auto attendant information available on an OGM menu
with VPS: two way record (only on digital systems)
caller id on many phones
Alternative to the KSU system:
1-4 CO lines can come in on a single CAT5 line. Can I distribute all of those first 1-4 lines
throughout the entire house using a single CAT5 to each room? Or do I need to use pairs of RJ-14 jacks to distribute 4 lines throughout the house? Can I bridge the cable if not the jacks?
Radio Shack has a device called a "Two line Adaptor" that plugs into a two CO line jack (RJ-14) and makes any phone capeable os useing both lines. It costs about $22.
Verizon local landline service has many KSU features that can be leased month to month:
Can we do CallerID on several phones without a KSU?
- Flat Rate Service ($15.45/month per CO line)
- Non-Listed Number ($2/month, 411 has number but white pages do not)
- Non-published Number ($2/month, no one has number)
- Anonymous Call Block ($1/month or free with CallerID service, rejects anonymous calls)
- CallerID ($6.50/month for number only)
- CallerID ($7.95/month for name and number)
- Basic VoiceMail ($4.95/month accepts up to 3 messages at once)
- Standard VoiceMail ($6.95/month accepts up to 3 messages at once, 20 minutes capacity, multiple mailboxes)
- Deluxe VoiceMail ($8.95/month accepts up to 3 messages at once, 20 minutes capacity, pager notification, multiple mailboxes)
- Business line VoiceMail ($10.95/month, multiple mailboxes, what else?)
- Call forwarding variable ($3.50/month, forwards all calls to a new number, can follow you around)
- Three way calling ($3.75/month)
- Line hunt (incoming calls are forwarded to your next available line, do not put VoiceMail on any line except the last line)
- It becomes very interesting to get a package deal if the package deal CallerID includes name and number and it it also includes Standard VoiceMail or better VoiceMail.
It is possible to use Door Intercoms with any phone (Ablecomm W-2000A $169 each door station, plus C-1000A feature module $188 that connects the stations and their optional door strikes to the phones)
There are several KSU style (aka: "micro-PBX") phone systems that can do this. The current top runner is the Panasonic KX-TD308-3 (pdf) followed closely by either the bigger digital KX-TD816-5 (pdf) or the analog KX-TA624-3 (pdf).
Cable Plant and Plug/Plate Locations and Breakouts:
- Panasonic Digital KX-TD308-3 ($468 for base system from Telephones.com; or $455 from KD-TD.com;
adds up to $751.50):
3 CO lines in through one RJ-25 modular jack (via a surge protector with ground), 8 digital extentions and 4 analog SLT extensions out with one door intercom (one pair) all through an Amphenol jack (female, 25 pair) to which we plug a 66 type punch-down block (VersaBlock) and 8 modular jacks (the punch down can be used for separating the analog lines to other jacks).
- KX-TD30891 Multi Function Module adds caller ID, fax detection, and auto attendant for $188
- KX-T30865 Door Intercom Station adds a single intercom and strike plate switch for $24.50
- A PC Programming Cable (serial cable and null-modem adaptor) adds the ability to program the system and back it up to a PC for $15
- Ablecomm VersaBlock (A102M) converts the 25 pair Amphenol cable to modular jacks with a punch down block for $72 or Panasonic KX-TS-66M2K Quick Connect Block $56 (or $76 without a system)
- If we need more, the KX-TD30870 Expansion Module adds 4 more analog SLT ports for $98
Note: with either Panasonic Digital System listed here (KX-TD308-3 or KX-TD816-5, below), the phone choices are the same (7 phones for $1691):
Scott's Office: KX-T7456 (ash) ($278) illuminated lcd (6 rows) speakerphone, XDP pass through for fax/modem
Erci's Office: KX-T7456B (black) ($278) illuminated lcd (6 rows) speakerphone, XDP pass through for fax/modem
or save a little by using KX-T7436B is $260 but does not illuminate
Master Bedroom: KX-T7453 (ash) illuminated lcd (3 rows) speakerphone for $216 (and an analog SLT connected to it's XDP port)
Recroom: KX-T7433B (black) lcd (3 rows) speakerphone for $200
Sewing room: SLT connected to Recroom XDP at VersaBlock
Woodshop: KX-T7431 (ash) lcd (1 rows) speakerphone for $156
Open XDP for woodshop...
Kitchen: KX-TD7895 (black) lcd (2 rows) cordless DSS speakerphone for $363 for kitchen (does this thing use four conductors or two?)
or KX-TD7894 (black) cordless DSS speakerphone for $299 for kitchen (1)
- Panasonic Analog KX-TA624-3 ($443 for the base system from Ablecomm, KX-TD, or Telephones.com; adds up to $869.5):
3 CO lines in through multiple RJ-11 modular jacks (through a surge protector with ground), 8 extensions through a type 66 punch down block (ModBlock, 8 phones each) - or directly from the cords (if they have plugs).
Possibly the package deal: KX-TA624PKG-3, $608 from telephones.com - comes with 62493-3 and 62460
- Skip KX-TA62493 Called ID Card adds caller ID to 3 CO lines for $110
- Skip KX-TA62460 Door Operner Card adds four ports for $99
- KX-T30865 Door Intercom Station and Strike Plate for $24.50 each (could use three)
- KX-TA62491 DISA and Fax detection card for $188
- Optionally add KX-TA62470 Expansion Card for 8 more extensions for $221
Note: with Panasonic Hybrid System listed here (KX-TA624-3), the phone choices are (8 phones for $1504):
KX-T7335 (ash) illuminated lcd (1 rows) speakerphone for $147 for both sides of master bedroom (2)
KX-T7135B (black or KX-T7135 ash) illuminated lcd (1 rows) speakerphone $187 for each office (2)
KX-T7130B (black or KX-T7130 ash) large lcd (1 rows) speakerphone $168 for sewing and rec room (2)
KX-T7030B (black or KX-T7030 ash) small lcd (1 rows) speakerphone for $137 for woodshop (1)
KX-TD7895 (black) lcd (2 rows) cordless DSS speakerphone for $363 for kitchen (1)
or KX-TD7894 (black) cordless DSS speakerphone for $299 for kitchen (1)
- Panasonic Digital KX-TD816-5 ($789 for base system from KX-TD with parts from Telephones.com; adds up to $1226.50):
4 CO lines in through RJ-14 modular jacks (2 CO lines each) via surge protectors and grounds, modular jacks for first 8 digital extensions (ModBlock or direct wire), an Amphenol (female, 25 pair) for additional extensions (with the KX-TD170, use VersaBlock or TailBlock), up to 4 door intercoms with cards.
- KX-TD193 Caller ID Card for $223
- KX-TD161 Door Operner Card adds four ports for $141
- TX-T30865 Door Intercom Stations at $24.50 each (up to three)
- Optionally add KX-TD170 Expansion Card to add 8 more extensions for $318
- How do we add fax-detection and DISA like dial back and forwarding?
- I guess I could go cheap and get a Merlin 410 ($315 used) and several Merlin Phones (BIS-22D for $129) and Merlin Cordless (905 is $415)
All 45 RJ-14 jack lines (nearly 80 RJ-14 jacks in two banks of 45 each; bank A for lines 1&2, bank B for lines 3&4) should be individually connected via CAT5 cable (using all four connectors) to the 96 port voice break out panel in the A/V closet in the Theatre/Computer room. There will be as many as 24 patch cables to link the telephone KSU to up to 24 of the 48 ports. Tim will actually use RJ-45 sockets in a manner that should work with most RJ-14 plugs. Two pairs of conductors will be active.
Window Covering Systems (Drapery/Blind motors for Eastern Exposures):
All 48 RJ-45 jacks should be individually connected via CAT6 cable to the 48 port data break out panel in the A/V closet in the Theatre room. There will be as many as 16 patch cables to connect the 16 port 10/100 switch to the break out panel.
All 97 F connectors (44 dual RG-6 runs, 9 single RG-6 runs) should be individually connected via quad shielded RG-6 cable to the coax break out panel in the A/V closet in the Theatre room. Tim says he'll be using plug & snap connectors for the coaxial cable links. I continue to call the F-style connectors, but they are really plug and snap.
The break out panel ports will all be clearly marked with the room/plate number they connect to. The wall plates in each room with typically be "standard" plates (1 white RJ-45 from Cat5e, 1 grey RJ-45 from cat6, and 2 F) unless other wise specified. Tim and I will fan out any telephone RJ-45 jacks to two RJ-14 cables if needed.
Sense really bright sunlight, and shut blinds/drapes automatically.
Home Control Systems:
Whole House Music Systems:
Inventory of A/V Gear we already own and will be moving into the new home:
Scott's Office (Study off Ballroom):
- Sony KV-25XBR 27" Stereo Television (2179404)
25" wide by 22" tall by 20" deep
This awesome set survives from 1987 when I bought it while stationed in Japan, it has an amazing 34pin IDC male RGB connector that I used to plug my Amiga 500 and 3000 into as an excellent RGB display.
Basement Rec Area or Sitting Room:
- Sony KV-32XBR200 32" Television (9006777)
35" wide x 27" tall x 24" deep
- Sony LDP-750 Laserdisc (105022)
17" wide x 4" tall x 17" deep + cable room
- Sony DVP-S330 DVD Player (0107611)
17" wide x 4" tall x 14" deep + cable room
- New Dishplayer 7200 Receiver (CDEBPJ01240K)
16" wide x 4" tall + top venting x 14" deep + cable room
- DishPlayer/EchoStar 7100 (8GB/4-5hrs, MS-DOS, WebTV, upgrade remote)
- DishPlayer/EchoStar 7200 (17.6GB/8-10hrs, MS-DOS, WebTV, add keyboard)
- DishPlayer/EchoStar 7120 (7100 plus 18" dish to cover 119)
- DishPlayer/EchoStar 7222 (7200 plus dish to cover both 110 and 119)
- DishPro PVR 501 (40GB/35hrs, Linux, OpenTV, 7 day EPG by Thanksgiving, Title search by Feb/2002)
- DishPro PVR 721 (120GB/100hrs, Linux, OpenTV, twin tuners, available in Dec/2001)
- DishPro PVR 921 (120GB/100hrs, Linux, OpenTV, twin HDTV tuners, available in 2002)
- Akai DT-138 Audio Timer (20360-00103)
12" wide x 2" tall x 7" deep
- Hitachi VT-M121A VCR (90707927)
- Storage for a few LaserDiscs (13" square) and a way to dim/shade the Timer's display
- room for a future stereo receiver
Ballroom (DJ Corner):
- Get new 65" Sony KP-65XBR2 Rear Projection TV at around $4500 (61.375" wide x 62" high x 29" deep x 327lbs.) - or wait until there are multiple component inputs!
or get the Toshiba 56H80 at around $2200 or the Pioneer PRO610HD at around $4300
- Get new Sony SLV-R1000 S-VHS Hi-Fi VCR ($~1000)
- Pioneer CLD-D703 Laserdisc Player (OJ_3612977 Y)
17" wide by 6" tall by 16" deep + cable room
- Sony Playstation SCPH-7501 (u7645494)
- Nintendo N64 NUS-001 (NS219189152, 36-0018637)
- AR-315 Stereo Speakers with built in sub woofers (A0001072 and A0001164)
- matching AR Center Channel (A0003208)
- 5 disc Technics SL-PD687 CD Changer (FD5DD30051)
- Technics SL-P770-kpa CD Player (FB9119F007)
- Technics RS-TR575p-k Cassette (FH5DH25727)
- Yamaha PX-3 Moving Coil Turntable (203397)
- Yamaha R-9 Stereo Receiver (22399)
- Gemini PDM-6012 Mixer (95058035)
- Roland A-30 Midi Keyboard (AH34601)
- Sharp Carousel R-5A86 Microwave Oven (144006): Kitchen
- Get new small television... perhaps a flip down mounted under cabinets?
Theatre (entertainment closet):
- Panasonic NV-FS100PX S-VHS VCR (AOHG00123)
17" wide x 4" tall x 15" deep + cable room
- Apex AD-600A DVD Player (1990966036)
17" wide x 3.5" tall x 14" deep + cable room
- Dishplayer 7200 Receiver (CDEBPJ01240K)
16" wide x 4" tall + top venting x 14" deep + cable room
- Denon AVR-3200 5.1 Receiver (8117324228)
17" wide x 6.5" tall + top venting x 16" deep + cable room
- Shop around at AgoraQuest (Sony fan site) first, then get new 36" Sony KV-36XBR450 at around $1800 1080i/720p/480p two Component Video inputs (39.125" wide x 30" high x 24.5" deep x 235lbs) or 40" Sony KV-40XBR700 at around $2200 (43" wide x 33" high x 26" deep x 304lbs.) or a 40" Sony KV-40XBR800 at around $2400 (adds DVI-HDTV, V1 to DRC Memory Stick)
Sony now has a KV-36XBR800 with different case, DRC V1 and HD Detailer for $1700, but is it as nice as the 450?
- Goldstar CMT-9482X 20" TV (XC00051361) RF Only, Dec 1989
- Magnavox VR-9142 VHS VCR (18978106) Oct 1992
- Dishnet 2700 Receiver (RLECLK50720D)
- Sony KV-1361 13" TV (804174) RF Only, April 1984
- Baby Advent Stereo Speakers (45947 and 45946)
- Cerwin Vega PD-6 Stereo Speakers (002558 and 002564)
- E-mu XR/Proteus/1 Synthesizer 9011 (0611192)
- Roland CM-32L Synthesizer
- Panasonic Thruster Stereo Speakers
- Sony CDF-12 CD Boom box
- Tape boom box (has line in/aux in)
- Aiwa CX-NA555 CD/Radio/Cassette (Erci's Office)
- lots of computer gear
- Boston 7000596 Computer Speakers (EJ0367363)
- Epson Stylus 740 Color Printer (A6R1407755)
- Zoom 56k MODEM 2949L (1030-Z2949-00-00L-0532)
- PowerMac G3/300/Zip/Floppy/CD/64mb/6gb (XB8432JDL4)
- External Zip 650 (5UA053E7UT)
- Sony 200ES 17" Display (0727959)
Get a Rainbow (rainbowsystem.com) eSERIES Vacuum Cleaner (Water, Separator, and HEPA Filter) with:
Vacuum and Power Nozzle $1100-1500
Dirttrap.com says our nearest distributer is: Holsinger Enterprise, Carl Holsinger, 3191 Swift Shoals Road, Boyce, VA 22620, 540-837-1781
Aquamate II (for shampoo) $160
Four Quart Basin (wet vac) $46
Rainbow Squeegee (floors) $45
RainbowMate (stairs) $80
Floor Cleaner Concentrate
Carpet Cleaning Formula $17
scarecrow water spray $100 each from Smart Home
ionic and ultrasonic pest control $40 from Smart Home
to know when it is dark or light outside
front door and a few of the main exterior lights, want them to come on every night at dusk
- device added to sprinkler system to cut off sprinkler if rain detected.
- timers for delivering limited water
Bookmark - come back and edit from here down
Whole House Surge Supressor
$80-$250 in the Smart Home catalog
X10 Signal Block and Coupler
Ballroom - need new speakers, will re-use current equipment for receiver, CD, turntable.
Family room - surround sound speakers needed
Want to be able to play ballroom audio in family room as well.
Want to play ballroom audio in gameroom? or will it have own audio
screen approx. 72 inches diagonal (72 * 3 = 216, or 18 foot viewing length)
Current choice is the Stewart Luxus Screenwall with the 1.5 inch, Velux coated frame. The dimensions are 96x54 or 110" diagonal.
ceiling mounted projector - need to get
Bedroom TV: 48" for 12' viewing length
Family Room TV: 36" (36 * 3 = 108, or 9 feet viewing length)
32" gives 8' viewing length
25" gives 6'3" viewing length
20" gives 5'
13" gives 3'3"
Current choice is the Sony VPL-VW10HT (forum, approx $5000)
Possibly with a WhisperFlow quiet fan designed by Dave Beatty.
Possible contenders are the :
JVC DLA-G20U (2000 lumens, D-ILA, 1365x1024, 1.4megapixels, 38 pounds, $17,999, noisy fan)
NEC LT150 (800 lumens, DLP, XGA (1024x768), 3.3 pounds!!!, $4800, quiet)
InFocus LP130 (1100 lumens, DLP, XGA, 3.0 pounds!!!, quiet)
lighting - step lighting, theatre lighting on step edges
dimmer for overhead recessed cans
Technology and Automation
We have had several recommendations for Audio/Video/Data suppliers:
Scott has been dilligent and found nearly every home automation/alarm company on the web:
Several of our friends have recommended (for Audio/Visual/Data):
Intergrated Media Systems (Tom Wells - 703-448-0736)
8460 Tyco Road, Vienna, VA 22182
Intergrated Media Systems
Another recommends (for both Security and Audio/Visual/Data):
National Security Inc, (Lou Gibbs - 703-273-5555)
National Security Inc
Jeffrey Watkins recommends:
703-273-5555 National Security Inc, Lou Gibbs
National Security Inc
Mike Fischer Recommends:
Intergrated Media Systems (Tom Wells)
Ken Hunstman Recommends:
Intergrated Media Systems (Tom Wells) using CAIN Security
(703) 448-0736 (Tom)
Cain - Patricia (Patty) Sharkey (703) 360-1900 FourSharks@aol.com
Ant Hoffman Recommends:
Intergrated Media Systems (Tom Wells)
Everyone recommends AGAINST using:
Electronic Interiors 2000, LLC
101 Chestnut Street, Suite 200
Gaithersburg, MD 20877
Chris Brewer (marketing, returned call)
American Smart Home (Tim Horan)
We used Midway Alarms (Lou Miller) 301-490-6915 / 800-366-6915
fax - 301-490-7455
13 C Street, Suite A
Laurel, MD 20707
Home Technology Systems, Inc,
SmartHome Systems and
Smart Home are suppliers of parts/devices/kits only, they
are not installing companys (integrators) - though their catalogs and webpages
are very informative.
Smart Valley has a guide to Networking the Home.
I can't find Smart House on the web.
Cisco Routers for the home
Family Electronics has products that are interesting and useful.
MIS, Smart Pads and devices
Smart Home Systems
Wired for Living, Wired for Life
National Resources Defense Council, stuff about energy efficiency and hazardous materials... lots of information, some propoganda...
Western Power, Smart Home has allergy information and clever ideas - interesting...
Logic Drive has home networking solutions
Smart Home Pro
Smart Home Links, Information
Automated Smart Home
Smart Home Tech
Canadian Chinese Connection, information about Smart homes
New Communications Technology, information and philosphy
Smart Home Index
Crestron Remote control systems
Wiring and Video Equipment
(How to send us email)
Last updated: November 13th, 2002